Ann Warrior

                          Moonkist Norwegian Forest Cats.

I’ve always kept cats and about 25years ago I bred a litter of Siamese which was wonderful, but my personal circumstances changed and I could not carry on breeding.  I made a vow then to go back to breeding when I retired if I was in the position to do so.

Many years passed, I ran a cat rescue for about 7 of those years and through that met a lady who had Norwegian Forest Cats, and I fell in love with this gentle breed when I got to know them and worked towards getting two queens when I retired.

So that is how Saska my silver and white girl and Mia, a brown and white classic tabby came to stay.  Mia has had two wonderful litters and is an excellent Mum.  One male kitten a blue and white has been doing very well on the show bench.  The rest of her kittens have gone as pets. Saska has had one litter and I am hoping to mate her up again very soon

SASKA - Jhardufae Moonkist Delight  MIA -  Jhardufae Moonkist Orchard                           

The joy/worry has all been worth it seeing the kittens coming into the world and watching them develop and then go off to their new homes.  When that day comes it is tinged with sadness on my part as I miss them but also seeing the happiness in the new owner’s eyes and knowing how much pleasure the kittens will bring to them makes it all worthwhile.  I have met so many nice people along the way so far and all have kept in touch.

I then saw Popsie a silver and white tortie girl with a wonderful personality and was over the moon when my friend said I could purchase her…She is now 8 months and I hope to breed from her eventually as well.

   JHARDUFAE PURPLE POPSICLE

 Norwegians are a largish gentle breed and are very laid back in my experience.  They have the added bonus of being low maintenance in the grooming stakes and it does not take too much work to keep their coats in stunning condition.

                                                      SOME OF MIA’S KITTENS’
Ann Warrior Moonkist Norwegian Forest Cats.

                                           Sandy Holden

                                          of   Osocozi Cats

A few days ago Carol asked me to write a few lines about how I came into the breeding of Tabby Point cats. Well, it happened by accident.

I was offered a colour pointed girl and really, looking back I had absolutely no idea what it was all about, although I had been showing neuters for some time.  It was not until much later that I found people, willing to teach me that I realised that it wasn’t simply a case of putting one cat with another, but there was a lot to think about before matching up the cats to produce good kittens.

Now, some five years later, I think I have learned a lot, although I will never have learned enough and of late have I think begun to get things right.

After taking my colour point girl out to a nice boy, I happened to say that I would like to buy a pointed boy of my own, after much discussion the breeder agreed to let me have a boy from her, a tabby point. It shames me to tell that I had no clue at that time what a tabby point looked like and so before making my decision I did some research on the internet and fell in love with these lovely cats.

A month later “Wellie” came home with us (Nannkay Wellingtonbomer). That was 4 years ago and I am so happy to say that he has produced some beautiful babies, including Champion Griselian Boogie Woogie who in turn has given me my lovely baby, Osocozi Albie Delves.

I love the tabby points and hope that one day Albie will take over from Wellie who will retire and continue to live with us for many years to come.

                                                              Sandy Holden Osocozi cats

    www.osocozicats.co.uk

Carol Blakemore of

Dragoneyes  cats

I have been breeding and showing British shorthairs for about 14 years now, it all started when we brought are first B.s.h blue girl " Sammy" we didn't buy her for show or breeding just as a pet, but we decided to have a litter of blues from her. Well that was the beginning really, it was so enjoyable to have these lovely babies, we were hooked. I first found out about the super British Colourpointed a couple of years later and just fell in love with them, so off I went looking in all the magazines etc, phoning around everywhere, this is now I first meet Joy Southerland who at the time ran the kitten list for the Colourpointed British Shorthair cat club. Joy is now a close friend ,we looked everywhere, there was every colour except blue a colourpointed girl in Kent. We had to go up to Grimsby to look for a Blue Colourpointed girl from my new friends Diane and Doug Campbell , we chose Cloudy from her litter and decided we would like to show her ,I will always remember Diane's words  "you will love it or hate it "  .

"Cloudy"   Champion MuddyPaws Tuppence Hapenny.

Well we loved it , but I do remember now nervous I was at our first show, I  remember thinking, we will never get through the vetting in . Cloudy has been a super cat and Mother to my Colourpointed Line.

 Many thanks to Diane and Doug for letting me have Cloudy as a un- experienced breeder.   

Then came Whizzy our very first boy, he was the smallest of the litter and was a favourite of the children, so he stayed, he was a gentle giant and became a Premier very quickly. Our first Dragoneyes to win .

`Whizzy` Pr Dragoneyes Sky Comet

I have 3 girls from Cloudy, Bella , Poppy and Evie. Bella is a seal colourpointed, she did well on the show bench as a kitten , but hated it, so has never been shown as an adult, Poppy is a blue colourpointed and reached Championship level , Evie is a Lilac colourpointed and became a Grand Champion at Tica and Champion at G,c,c,f.

I first saw the Tabby Colourpointed after meeting June Payne and Julie Friend, June had one of  my very first stud boys a Chocolate Colourpointed boy " Hugo" . Molly was my first Tabby c.p girl from Julie a seal tabby girl and is the mother to one of  my tabby c.p line  , I  have breed my first girl from her Elsa a Chocolate tabby girl, Molly has now given me my first Tabby ,c.p Boy Blake, who I have keep as a stud boy along with Mousa a Lilac c.p boy from Bella.    

I also have Blake's sister "Breeze" a chocolate c.p girl and a fawn self girl "Missy" who carries c.p from my friends Malcolm and Christine Stevenson of Malsome cats .I also have a new Blue tabby c.p girl from June "Bree" who is the start of  another line, many thanks to my friends Julie and June for introducing me the lovely tabby c.p .

 I  have belonged to many cat clubs and been on two committees but best of all I love to steward and this is now I first meet my Best Friend Val Anderson, my first stewarding engagement was at the National cat club for Val.

We had such a good day and have become really good friends ever since . My Husband Ian and Val's Husband Phil,  also became good friends and we have been on Holidays together, "Well that's another story".  I have also Stewarded for Caroline Wren on the British and a few Judges with other breeds of cat.

I have made many friends along the way one being Claire Machardy who has Harry a Chocolate tabby stud boy from me and a friend Mary who has Merlin as a stud boy . I have a couple of girls out there as breeding queens to people who are now friends .  I haven't sold many cats for breeding and showing as my babies have never done that well on the show bench but they have lovely babies for there new mums and dads and that's more important to me than show winners  and that they live with and are loved and cared for my their new families.

I do have a waiting list for Babies but if you are interested in a Dragoneyes cat please just email

or phone me on 01227 767056

www.dragoneyescats.co.uk  carolblakemore@inbox.com

Scottish Fold

In 1961 a shepherd by the name of William Ross spotted the first known Scottish Fold cat at a farm near Coupar Angus in the Tayside Region of Scotland, Northwest of Dundee. Ross asked the owners if he could have one of the kittens, and proceeded to develop the breed from the original, Susie, a white barn cat. The unique thing about this cat was that her ears folded forward and downward on her head. The resulting look gave the impression of a “pixie”, “owl”, or “teddy bear” that has captured the hearts of many American cat fanciers and judges. The Scottish Fold was granted championship status by The Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) in 1978.

Scottish Folds come in two types: folded ear and straight (normal) ear. The folded ear is produced by an incomplete dominant gene and is the result of a spontaneous mutation.

Over the last two decades the Scottish Fold has developed a look all its own...even though allowed outcrosses include American Shorthairs and British Shorthairs. The Fold does not necessarily resemble the American Shorthair’s hard, powerful “working cat” body and squared-off muzzle. Nor does it look like the British Shorthair’s massive, compact body, short legs, and flat planed top-head. The Fold, instead, is a medium cat with a rounded, well-padded body and a short, dense, and resilient coat. It has large, round, broadly spaced eyes full of sweetness; well-rounded whisker pads and a short nose with a gentle curve in profile.

Scottish Fold kittens are born with straight ears. At about three to four weeks of age, their ears fold...or they don’t! It is usually around eleven to twelve weeks of age that the breeder can determine the quality (pet, breeder or show). Presently, only folded ear cats of Scottish lineage are permitted in the show ring, and naturally, every breeder wants to produce show cats. The straight ear progeny of Scottish Folds, nevertheless, are invaluable to the breeding program.

Due to the rarity of the Fold, AND due to the fact that not every kitten born has folded ears, it is very hard for the supply to keep up with the demand.

Scottish Folds are hardy cats, much like their barnyard ancestors. Their disposition matches their sweet expression. They have tiny voices and are not extremely vocal. They adore human companionship and display this in their own quiet way.

Scottish Folds adapt to almost any home situation and are as comfortable in a room full of noisy children and dogs as they are in a single person’s dwelling. They don’t usually panic at shows or in strange hotel rooms, and they adjust to other animals extremely well.

Scottish Folds come in any and all colours possible with the exception of those showing evidence of hybridization resulting in     colours chocolate, lavender, the Himalayan pattern, or a combination of these and white.

When inspecting a Fold for purchase, be sure to determine the flexibility of the tail and check the feet and legs. There must be no hint of thickness or lack of mobility due to short, coarse legs or splayed toes. Determination of tail flexibility can be accomplished by moving your hand down the tail in a VERY GENTLE, slightly upward-arching movement. With proper flexibility, this arching movement can be made without discomfort to the cat. Again, when doing this PLEASE BE GENTLE!

The Scottish Fold is an undemanding cat. A clean environment, proper nutrition, and generous doses of love are its only requirements.

Pricing on Scottish Folds usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavioUr of scratching (CFA disapproves of de-clawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

      There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Scottish Fold breed.

                                                               For more information

GENERAL: the Scottish Fold cat occurred as a spontaneous mutation in farm cats in Scotland. The breed has been established by crosses to British Shorthair and domestic cats in Scotland and England. In America, the outcross is the American and British Shorthair. All bona fide Scottish Fold cats trace their pedigree to Susie, the first fold-ear cat discovered by the founders of the breed, William and Mary Ross.

HEAD: well rounded with a firm chin and jaw. Muzzle to have well rounded whisker pads. Head should blend into a short neck. Prominent cheeks with a jowly appearance in males.

EYES: wide open with a sweet expression. Large, well rounded, and separated by a broad nose. Eye color to correspond with coat color. Blue-eyed and odd-eyed are allowed for all white and bi-color and van patterns.

NOSE: nose to be short with a gentle curve. A brief stop is permitted. Profile is moderate in appearance .

EARS: fold forward and downward. Small, the smaller, tightly folded ear preferred over a loose fold and large ear. The ears should be set in a caplike fashion to expose a rounded cranium. Ear tips to be rounded.

BODY: medium, rounded, and even from shoulder to pelvic girdle. The cat should stand firm with a well padded body. There must be no hint of thickness or lack of mobility in the cat due to short, coarse legs. Toes to be neat and well rounded with five in front and four behind. Overall appearance is that of a well rounded cat with medium bone; fault cats obviously lacking in type. Females may be slightly smaller.

TAIL: tail should be medium to long but in proportion to the body. Tail should be flexible and tapering which may end in a round tip. Longer, tapering tail preferred.

COAT (SHORTHAIR): dense, plush, even. Short to medium-short in length. Soft in texture. Full of life. Standing away from body due to density, not flat or close lying. Coat texture may vary due to color and/or regional/seasonal changes.

COAT (LONGHAIR): medium-long to long hair length. Full coat on face and body desirable but short hair permissible on face and legs. Britches, tail plume, toe tufts, and ear furnishings should be clearly visible with a ruff being desirable. Seriously penalize: cottony coat, except in kittens.

PENALIZE: brow ridge.

DISQUALIFY: kinked tail. Tail that is foreshortened. Tail that is lacking in flexibility due to abnormally thick vertebrae. Splayed toes, incorrect number of toes. Any evidence of illness or poor health. Palpable nose break. Any color or pattern showing evidence of hybridization resulting in the colors chocolate, lavender, the pointed pattern, or combinations of these colors with white, etc.

SCOTTISH FOLD COLORS

WHITE: pure glistening white. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: deep blue or brilliant gold. Odd-eyed whites shall have one blue and one gold eye with equal color depth.

BLACK: dense, coal black, sound from roots to tip of fur. Free from any tinge of rust on tips or smoke undercoat. Nose leather: black. Paw pads: black or brown. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BLUE: blue, lighter shade preferred, one level tone from nose to tip of tail. Sound to roots. A sound darker shade is more acceptable than an unsound lighter shade. Nose leather and paw pads: blue. Eye color: brilliant gold.

RED: deep, rich, clear, brilliant red; without shading, markings, or ticking. Lips and chin the same color as coat. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CREAM: one level shade of buff cream, without markings. Sound to the roots. Lighter shades preferred. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CHINCHILLA SILVER: undercoat pure white. Coat on back, flanks, head and tail sufficiently tipped with black to give the characteristic sparkling silver appearance. Legs may be slightly shaded with tipping. Chin, ear tufts, stomach, and chest, pure white. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green.

SHADED SILVER: undercoat white with a mantle of black tipping shading down from sides, face, and tail from dark on the ridge to white on the chin, chest, stomach, and under the tail. Legs to be the same tone as the face. The general effect to be much darker than a chinchilla. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green.

CHINCHILLA GOLDEN: undercoat rich warm cream. Coat on back, flanks, head and tail sufficiently tipped with black to give golden appearance. Legs may be slightly shaded with tipping. Chin, ear tufts, stomach, and chest are cream. Rims of eyes, lips and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: deep rose. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green preferred.

SHADED GOLDEN: undercoat rich warm cream with a mantle of black tipping shading down from the sides, face, and tail from dark on the ridge to cream on the chin, chest, stomach, and under the tail. Legs to be same tone as the face. The general effect to be much darker than a chinchilla. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: deep rose. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green preferred.

SHELL CAMEO (Red Chinchilla): undercoat white, the coat on the back, flanks, head, and tail to be sufficiently tipped with red to give the characteristic sparkling appearance. Face and legs may be very slightly shaded with tipping. Chin, ear tufts, stomach, and chest white. Nose leather and paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant gold.

SHADED CAMEO (Red Shaded): undercoat white with a mantle of red tipping shading down the sides, face, and tail from dark on the ridge to white on the chin, chest, stomach, and under the tail. Legs to be the same tone as face. The general effect to be much redder than the shell cameo. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BLACK SMOKE: white undercoat, deeply tipped with black. Cat in repose appears black. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Points and mask black with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. Nose leather and paw pads: black. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BLUE SMOKE: white undercoat, deeply tipped with blue. Cat in repose appears blue. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Points and mask blue with narrow band of white at base of hairs which may be seen only when fur is parted. Nose leather and paw pads: blue. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CAMEO SMOKE (Red Smoke): white undercoat, deeply tipped with red. Cat in repose appears red. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Points and mask red with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CLASSIC TABBY PATTERN: markings dense, clearly defined, and broad. Legs evenly barred with bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail evenly ringed. Several unbroken necklaces on neck and upper chest, the more the better. Frown marks on forehead form an intricate letter "M." Unbroken line runs back from outer corner of eye. Swirls on cheeks. Vertical lines over back of head extend to shoulder markings which are in the shape of a butterfly with both upper and lower wings distinctly outlined and marked with dots inside outline. Back markings consist of a vertical line down the spine from butterfly to tail with a vertical stripe paralleling it on each side, the three stripes well separated by stripes of the ground color. Large solid blotch on each side to be encircled by one or more unbroken rings. Side markings should be the same on both sides. Double vertical rows of buttons on chest and stomach.

MACKEREL TABBY PATTERN: markings dense, clearly defined, and all narrow pencillings. Legs evenly barred with narrow bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail barred. Necklaces on neck and chest distinct, like so many chains. Head barred with an "M" on the forehead. Unbroken lines running back from the eyes. Lines running down the head to meet the shoulders. Spine lines run together to form a narrow saddle. Narrow pencillings run around body.

SPOTTED TABBY PATTERN: markings on the body to be spotted. The spots can be round, oblong or rosette shaped. Any of these are of equal merit but the spots, however shaped or placed, shall be distinct. Spots should not run together in a broken Mackerel pattern. A dorsal stripe runs the length of the body to the tip of the tail. The stripe is ideally composed of spots. The markings on the face and forehead shall be typically tabby markings. Underside of the body to have "vest buttons." Legs and tail are barred.

TICKED TABBY PATTERN: body hairs to be ticked with various shades of marking color and ground color. Body when viewed from the top to be free from noticeable spots, stripes, or blotches, except for the darker dorsal shading. Lighter underside may show tabby markings. Face, legs, and tail must show distinct tabby striping. Cat must have at least one distinct necklace.

PATCHED TABBY PATTERN: a patched tabby (torbie) is an established silver, brown, or blue tabby with patches of red and/or cream.

SILVER TABBY: ground color, including lips and chin, pale clear silver. Markings dense black. Nose leather: brick red. paw pads: black. Eye color: green or hazel.

BLUE-SILVER TABBY (Pewter Tabby): ground color, including lips and chin, pale, clear, bluish silver. Markings sound blue. Nose leather: blue or old rose trimmed with blue. Paw pads: blue.

BLUE-SILVER PATCHED TABBY: ground color a pale bluish silver. Markings sound blue and cream or softly intermingled areas of cream on both body and/or extremities. Undercoat white. Lips and chin are the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: blue or old rose trimmed with blue and/or pink. Paw pads: blue or old rose and/or pink.

BLUE-SILVER (Pewter): undercoat white with a mantle of blue tipping shading down from sides, face and tail from dark on the ridge to white on the chin, chest, underside and under the tail. Legs to be the same tone as the face. Rims of eyes, lips and nose: outlined with blue. Nose leather: blue or old rose trimmed with blue. Paw pads: blue.

RED TABBY: ground color red. Markings deep, rich red. Lips and chin red. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BROWN TABBY: ground color brilliant coppery brown. Markings dense black. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Back of leg black from paw to heel. Nose leather: brick red. paw pads: black or brown. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BLUE TABBY: ground color. including lips and chin, pale bluish ivory. Markings a very deep blue affording a good contrast with ground color. Warm fawn overtones or patina over the whole. Nose leather: old rose. paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CREAM TABBY: ground color, including lips and chin, very pale cream. Marking of buff or cream sufficiently darker than the ground color to afford good contrast but remaining within the dilute color range. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant gold.

CAMEO TABBY: ground color off-white. Markings red. Nose leather and paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant gold.

TABBY AND WHITE: All tabby patterns and colors [silver, blue-silver, brown, blue (classic, mackerel, spotted, ticked and patched), red, cream, cameo (classic, mackerel, spotted and ticked)] with the addition of white. Eye color: brilliant gold, deep blue or odd-eyed. Odd-eyed will have one blue and one gold eye of equal color depth.

TORTOISESHELL: black with unbrindled patches of red and cream. Patches clearly defined and well broken on both body and extremities. Blaze of red or cream on face is desirable. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CALICO: white with unbrindled patches of black and red. White predominant on underparts. Eye color: brilliant gold.

DILUTE CALICO: white with unbrindled patches of blue and cream. White predominant on underparts. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BLUE-CREAM: blue with patches of solid cream. Patches clearly defined and well broken on both body and extremities. Eye color: brilliant gold.

BI-COLOR: white with unbrindled patches of black, white with unbrindled patches of blue, white with unbrindled patches of red, or white with unbrindled patches of cream. Eye color: brilliant gold, deep blue or odd-eyed. Odd-eyed will have one blue and one gold eye of equal color depth.

OSFC (Other Scottish Fold Colors): any other color or pattern with the exception of those showing evidence of hybridization resulting in the colors chocolate, lavender, the Himalayan pattern, or these combinations with white. Eye color: appropriate to the dominant color of the cat. Odd-eyed and blue-eyed allowed in all bi-color and van patterns. Odd-eyed will have one blue and one gold eye of equal color depth